Cliffs the color of rust. Caves punched into canyon walls. Villages that look stacked from mud and stubbornness. North of the Annapurna range, Nepal stops looking like the postcards and turns dry, wind-scoured and strangely quiet. Salt and wool caravans once crossed this land toward Tibet, and you can still feel that trade in the air.
Planning a trip to Upper Mustang takes more paperwork than...
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